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 Part 8 of Trout Fishing in America by Richard Brautigan 
						A RETURN TO THE COVER OF
 THIS BOOK
 
 
 
 Dear Trout Fishing in America:
 
 
 
 I met your friend Fritz in Washington Square. He told me
 
 to tell you that his case went to a jury and that he was acquit-
 
 ted by the jury.
 
 He said that it was important for me to say that his case
 
 went to a jury and that he was acquitted by the jury,
 
 said it again.
 
 He looked in good shape. He was sitting in the sun. There's
 
 an old San Francisco saying that goes: "It's better to rest in
 
 Washington Square than in the California Adult Authority. "
 
 How are things in New York?
 
 
 
 Yours,
 
 
 
 "An Ardent Admirer"
 
 
 
 
 
 Dear Ardent Admirer:
 
 
 
 It's good to hear that Fritz isn't in jail. He was very wor-
 
 ried about it. The last time I was in San Francisco, he told
 
 me he thought the odds were 10-1 in favor of him going away.
 
 I told him to get a good lawyer. It appears that he followed
 
 my advice and also was very lucky. That's always a good
 
 combination.
 
 You asked about New York and New York is very hot.
 
 I'm visiting some friends, a young burglar and his wife.
 
 He's unemployed and his wife is working as a cocktail wait-
 
 ress. He's been looking for work but I fear the worst.
 
 It was so hot last night that I slept with a wet sheet wrapped
 
 around myself, trying to keep cool. I felt like a mental patient.
 
 I woke up in the middle of the night and the room was filled
 
 with steam rising off the sheet, and there was jungle stuff,
 
 abandoned equipment and tropical flowers, on the floor and
 
 on the furniture.
 
 I took the sheet into the bathroom and plopped it into the
 
 tub and turned the cold water on it. Their dog came in and
 
 started barking at me.
 
 The dog barked so loud that the bathroom was soon filled
 
 with dead people. One of them wanted to use my wet sheet
 
 for a shroud. I said no, and we got into a big argument over
 
 it and woke up the Puerto Ricans in the next apartment, and
 
 they began pounding on the walls.
 
 The dead people all left in a huff. "We know when we're
 
 not wanted, " one of them said.
 
 "You're damn tootin'," I said.
 
 I've had enough.
 
 I' m going to get out of New York. Tomorrow I'm leaving for
 
 Alaska. I'm going to find an ice-cold creek near the Arctic
 
 where that strange beautiful moss grows and spend a week
 
 with the grayling. My address will be, Trout Fishing in Ameri-
 
 ca, c/o General Delivery, Fairbanks, Alaska.
 
 
 
 Your friend,
 
 Trout Fishing in America
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 THE LAKE JOSEPHUS DAYS
 
 
 
 
 
 We left Little Redfish for Lake Josephus, traveling along the
 
 good names--from Stanley to Capehorn to Seafoam to the
 
 Rapid River, up Float Creek, past the Greyhound Mine and
 
 then to Lake Josephus, and a few days after that up the trail
 
 to Hell-diver Lake with the baby on my shoulders and a good
 
 limit of trout waiting in Hell-diver.
 
 Knowing the trout would wait there like airplane tickets
 
 for us to come, we stopped at Mushroom Springs and had a
 
 drink of cold shadowy water and some photographs taken of
 
 the baby and me sitting together on a log.
 
 I hope someday we'll have enough money to get those pic-
 
 tures developed. Sometimes I get curious about them, won-
 
 dering if they will turn out all right. They are in suspension
 
 now like seeds in a package. I'll be older when they are de-
 
 veloped and easier to please. Look there's the baby ! Look
 
 there's Mushroom Springs ! Look there's me !
 
 I caught the limit of trout within an hour of reaching Hell-
 
 diver, and my woman, in all the excitement of good fishing,
 
 let the baby fall asleep directly in the sun and when the baby
 
 woke up, she puked and I carried her back down the trail.
 
 My woman trailed silently behind, carrying the rods and
 
 the fish. The baby puked a couple more times, thimblefuls
 
 of gentle lavender vomit, but still it got on my clothes, and
 
 her face was hot and flushed.
 
 We stopped at Mushroom Springs. I gave her a small
 
 drink of water, not too much, and rinsed the vomit taste out
 
 of her mouth. Then I wiped the puke off my clothes and for
 
 some strange reason suddenly it was a perfect time, there
 
 at Mushroom Springs, to wonder whatever happened to the
 
 Zoot suit.
 
 Along with World War II and the Andrews Sisters, the
 
 Zoot suit had been very popular in the early 40s. I guess
 
 they were all just passing fads.
 
 A sick baby on the trail down from Hell-diver, July 1961,
 
 is probably a more important question. It cannot be left to
 
 go on forever, a sick baby to take her place in the galaxy,
 
 among the comets, bound to pass close to the earth every
 
 173 years.
 
 She stopped puking after Mushroom Springs, and I carried
 
 her back down along the path in and out of the shadows and
 
 across other nameless springs, and by the time we got down
 
 to Lake Josephus, she was all right.
 
 She was soon running around with a big cutthroat trout in
 
 her hands, carrying it like a harp on her way to a concert--
 
 ten minutes late with no bus in sight and no taxi either
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TROUT FISHING
 
 
 
 ON THE STREET OF ETERNITY
 
 
 
 
 
 Calle de Eternidad: We walked up from Gelatao, birthplace
 
 of Benito Juarez. Instead of taking the road we followed a
 
 path up along the creek. Some boys from the school in Gela-
 
 tao told us that up along the creek was the shortcut.
 
 The creek was clear but a little milky, and as 1 remem-
 
 ber the path was steep in places. We met people coming dowr
 
 the path because it was really the shortcut. They were all
 
 Indians carrying something.
 
 Finally the path went away from the creek and we climbed
 
 a hill and arrived at the cemetery. It was a very old ceme-
 
 tery and kind of run down with weeds and death growing there
 
 like partners in a dance.
 
 There was a cobblestone street leading up from the ceme-
 
 tery to the town of Ixtlan, pronounced East-LON, on top of
 
 another hill. There were no houses along the street untilyou
 
 reached the town.
 
 In the hair of the world, the street was very steep as you
 
 went up into Ixtlan. There was a street sign that pointedback
 
 down toward the cemetery, following every cobblestone with
 
 loving care all the way.
 
 We were still out of breath from the climb. The sign said
 
 Calle de Eternidad. Pointing.
 
 I was not always a world traveler, visiting exotic places
 
 in Southern Mexico. Once I was just a kid working for anold
 
 woman in the Pacific Northwest. She was in her nineties and
 
 I worked for her on Saturdays and after school and duringthe
 
 summer.
 
 Sometimes she would make me lunch, little egg sandwich-
 
 es with the crusts cut off as if by a surgeon, and she'd give
 
 me slices of banana dunked in mayonnaise.
 
 The old woman lived by herself in a house that was like a
 
 twin sister to her. The house was four stories high and had
 
 at least thirty rooms and the old lady was five feet high and
 
 weighed about eighty-two pounds.
 
 She had a big radio from the 1920s in the living room and
 
 it was the only thing in the house that looked remotely as if
 
 it had come from this century, and then there was still a
 
 doubt in my mind.
 
 A lot of cars, airplanes and vacuum cleaners and refrig-
 
 erators and things that come from the 1920s look as if they
 
 had come from the 1890s. It's the beauty of our speed that
 
 has done it to them, causing them to age prematurely into the
 
 clothes and thoughts of people from another century.
 
 The old woman had an old dog, but he hardly counted any
 
 more. He was so old that he looked like a stuffed dog. Once
 
 I took him for a walk down to the store. It was just like tak-
 
 ing a stuffed dog for a walk. I tied him up to a stuffed fire
 
 hydrant and he pissed on it, but it was only stuffed piss.
 
 I went into the store and bought some stuffing for the old
 
 lady. Maybe a,pound of coffee or a quart of mayonnaise.
 
 I did things for her like chop the Canadian thistles. Dur-
 
 ing the 1920s (or was it the 1890s) she was motoring in Cali-
 
 fornia, and her husband stopped the car at a filling station
 
 and told the attendant to fill it up.
 
 "How about some wild flower seeds?" the attendant said.
 
 "No, " her husband said. "Gasoline."
 
 "I know that, sir, " the attendant said. "But we're giving
 
 away wild flower seeds with the gasoline today. "
 
 "All right, " her husband said. "Give us some wild flower
 
 seeds, then. But be sure and fill the car up with gasoline.
 
 Gasoline's what I really want. "
 
 "They'll brighten up your garden, sir."
 
 " The gasoline 7"
 
 "No, sir, the flowers."
 
 They returned to the Northwest, planted the seeds and
 
 they were Canadian thistles. Every year I chopped themdown
 
 and they always grew back. I poured chemicals on them and
 
 they always grew back.
 
 Curses were music to their roots. A blow on the back of
 
 the neck was like a harpsichord to them. Those Canadian
 
 thistles were there for keeps. Thank you, California, for
 
 Your beautiful wild flowers. I chopped them down every year.
 
 I did other things for her like mow the lawn with a grim
 
 Old lawnmower. When I first went to work for her, she told
 
 me to be careful with that lawnmower. Some itinerant had
 
 Stopped at her place a few weeks before, asked for some
 
 work so he could rent a hotel room and get something to eat,
 
 and she'd said, "You can mow the lawn. "
 
 "Thanks, maram, " he'd said and went out and promptly
 
 cut three fingers off his right hand with that medieval mach-
 
 ine.
 
 I was always very careful with that lawnmower, knowing
 
 that somewhere on that place, the ghosts of three fingers
 
 were living it up in the grand spook manner. They needed no
 
 company from my fingers. My fingers looked just great, rigl:
 
 there on my hands.
 
 I cleaned out her rock garden and deported snakes when-
 
 ever I found them on her place. She told me to kill them, but
 
 I couldn't see any percentage in wasting a gartersnake. But
 
 I had to get rid of the things because she always promisedme
 
 she'd have a heart attack if she ever stepped on one of them.
 
 So I'd catch them and deport them to a yard across the
 
 street, where nine old ladies probably had heart attacks and
 
 died from finding those snakes in their toothbrushes. Fortu-
 
 n ately, I was never around when their bodies were taken awa!
 
 I'd clean the blackberry hushes out of the lilac hushes.
 
 Once in a while she'd give me some lilacs to take home and
 
 they were always fine-looking lilacs, and I always felt good,
 
 Walking down the street, holding the lilacs high and proud
 
 like glasses of that famous children's drink: the good flower
 
 wine .
 
 I'd chop wood for her stove. She cooked on a woodstove
 
 and heated the place during the winter with a huge wood fur-
 
 nace that she manned like the captain of a submarine in a
 
 dark basement ocean during the winter.
 
 In the summer I'd throw endless cords of wood into her
 
 basement until I was silly in the head and everything looked
 
 like wood, even clouds in the sky and cars parked on the
 
 street and cats.
 
 There were dozens of little tiny things that I did for her.
 
 Find a lost screwdriver, lost in 1911. Pick her a pan full of
 
 pie cherries in the spring, and pick the rest of the cherries
 
 on the tree for myself. Prune those goofy, at best half-assed
 
 trees in the backyard. The ones that grew beside an old pile
 
 oflumber. Weed.
 
 One early autumn day she loaned me to the woman next
 
 door and I fixed a small leak in the roof of her woodshed.
 
 The woman gave me a dollar tip, and I said thank you, and
 
 the next time it rained, all the newspapers she had been sav-
 
 ing for seventeen years to start fires with got soaking wet.
 
 From then on out, I received a sour look every time I
 
 passed her house. I was lucky I wasn't lynched.
 
 I didn't work for the old lady in the winter. I'd finish the
 
 year by the last of October, raking up leaves or somethin
 
 or transporting the last muttering gartersnake to winter
 
 quarters in the old ladies' toothbrush Valhalla across the
 
 street.
 
 Then she'd call me on the telephone in the spring. I would
 
 always be surprised to hear her little voice, surprised that
 
 she was still alive. I'd get on my horse and go out to her
 
 place and the whole thing would begin again and I'd make a
 
 few bucks and stroke the sun-warmed fur of her stuffed dog.
 
 One spring day she had me ascend to the attic and clean
 
 up some boxes of stuff and throw out some stuff and put some
 
 stuff back intd its imaginary proper place.
 
 I was up there all alone for three hours. It was my first
 
 time up there and my last, thank God. The attic was stuffed
 
 to the gills with stuff.
 
 Everything that's old in this world was up there. I spent
 
 most of my time just looking around.
 
 An old trunk caught my eye. I unstrapped the straps, un-
 
 clicked the various clickers and opened the God-damn thing.
 
 It was stuffed with old fishing tackle. There were old rods
 
 and reels and lines and boots and creels and there was a metal
 
 box full of flies and lures and hooks.
 
 Some of the hooks still had worms on them. The worms
 
 were years and decades old and petrified to the hooks. The
 
 worms were now as much a part of the hooks as the metal it-
 
 self.
 
 There was some old Trout Fishing in America armor in
 
 the trunk and beside a weather-beaten fishing helmet, I saw
 
 an old diary. I opened the diary to the first page and it said:
 
 The Trout Fishing Diary of Alonso Hagen
 
 It seemed to me that was the name of the old lady's brother
 
 who had died of a strange ailment in his youth, a thing I found
 
 out by keeping my ears open and looking at a large photograph
 
 prominently displayed in her front room.
 
 I turned to the next page in the old diary and it had in col-
 
 umns:
 
 The Trips and The Trout Lost
 
 April 7, 1891        Trout Lost   8
 
 April    15, 1891    Trout Lost   6
 
 April    23, 1891    Trout Lost 12
 
 May      13, 1891    Trout Lost   9
 
 May      23, 1891    Trout Lost   15
 
 May      24, 1891    Trout Lost   10
 
 May      25, 1891    Trout Lost   12
 
 June     2, 1891     Trout Lost   18
 
 June     6, 1891     Trout Lost   15
 
 June     17, 1891    Trout Lost   7
 
 June     19, 1891    Trout Lost   10
 
 June     23, 1891    Trout Lost   14
 
 July 4, 1891         Trout Lost   13
 
 July     23, 1891    Trout Lost   11
 
 August   10, 1891    Trout Lost   13
 
 August   17, 1891    Trout Lost   8
 
 August   20, 1891    Trout Lost   12
 
 August   29, 1891    Trout Lost   21
 
 September 3, 1891    Trout Lost   10
 
 September 11, 1891   Trout Lost   7
 
 September 19, 1891   Trout Lost   5
 
 September 23, 1891   Trout Lost   3
 
 
 
 Total Trips 22 Total Trout Lost 239
 
 Average Number of Trout Lost Each Trip 10.8
 
 
 
 I turned to the third page and it was just like the preced-
 
 ing page except the year was 1892 and Alonso Hagen went on
 
 24 trips and lost 317 trout for an average of 13. 2 trout lost
 
 each trip.
 
 The next page was 1893 and the totals were 33 trips and
 
 480 trout lost for an average of 14. 5 trout lost each trip.
 
 The next page was 1894. He went on 27 trips, lost 349
 
 trout for an average of 12.9 trout lost each trip.
 
 The next page was 1895. He went on 41 trips, lost 730
 
 trout for an average of 17.8 trout lost each trip.
 
 The next page was 1896. Alonso Hagen only went out 12
 
 times and lost 115 trout for an average of 9.5 trout lost each
 
 trip.
 
 The next page was 1897. He went on one trip and lost one
 
 trout for an average of one trout lost for one trip.
 
 The last page of the diary was the grand totals for the
 
 years running from 1891-1897. Alonso Hagen went fishing
 
 160 times and lost 2, 231 trout for a seven-year average of
 
 13.9 trout lost every time he went fishing.
 
 Under the grand totals, there was a little Trout Fishing
 
 in America epitaph by Alonso Hagen. It said something like:
 
 
 
 "I've had it.
 
 I've gone fishing now for seven years
 
 and I haven't caught a single trout.
 
 I've lost every trout I ever hooked.
 
 They either jump off
 
 or twist off.
 
 or squirm off
 
 or break my leader
 
 or flop off
 
 or fuck off.
 
 I have never even gotten my hands on a trout.
 
 For all its frustration,
 
 I believe it was an interesting experiment
 
 in total loss
 
 but next year somebody else
 
 will have to go trout fishing.
 
 Somebody else will have to go
 
 out there."
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 THE TOWEL
 
 
 
 
 
 We came down the road from Lake Josephus and down the
 
 road from Seafoam. We stopped along the way to get a drink
 
 of water. There was a small monument in the forest. I
 
 walked over to the monument to see what was happening. The
 
 glass door of the lookout was partly open and a towel was
 
 hanging on the other side.
 
 At the center of the monument was a photograph. It was
 
 the classic forest lookout photograph Ihave seen before, from
 
 that America that existed during the 1920s and 30s.
 
 There was a man in the photograph who looked a lot like
 
 Charles A. Lindbergh. He had that same Spirit of St. Louis
 
 nobility and purpose of expression, except that his North At-
 
 lantic was the forests of Idaho.
 
 There was a woman cuddled up close to him. She was one
 
 of those great cuddly women of the past, wearing those pants
 
 they used to wear and those hightop, laced boots.
 
 They were standing on the porch of the lookout. The sky was
 
 behind them, no more than afewfeet away. People in those days
 
 liked to take that photograph and they liked to be in it.
 
 There were words on the monument. They said:
 
 
 
 "In memory of Charley J. Langer, District
 
 Forest Ranger, Challis NationalForest, Pilot
 
 Captain Bill Kelly and Co-Pilot Arthur A. Crofts,
 
 of the U. S. Army killed in an Airplane Crash
 
 April 5, 1943, near this point while searching
 
 for survivors of an Army Bomber Crew."
 
 
 
 0 it's far away now in the mountains that a photograph
 
 guards the memory of a man. The photograph is all alone out
 
 there. The snow is falling eighteen years after his death. It
 
 covers up the door. It covers up the towel.
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